AHAs & BHAs : All You Need To Know

First things first, what are all these acronyms?

The world of acids can be divided into a three categories,: Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) and the underdog, Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs). If you're using a skincare acid, it'll fall into one of these categories.

The Basics: What Are AHAs and BHAs?

Both AHAs and BHAs are naturally occurring acids. AHAs is derived from sugar cane and some citrus fruits, and BHAs can be found in some plants like the bark of a willow tree.

As far as skin care is concerned, AHAs and BHAs are the most common types of chemical exfoliators. Their common goal is to exfoliate dead skin cells to yield rejuvenated, smoother skin.

AHAs and BHAs are very similar in how they benefit the skin, but each gets the job done a little differently.

The AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid) Family

These may ring some bells as you're might already have an AHA already hiding in your skincare routine.

AHAs are chemical exfoliators that can be extremely helpful for oily or blemish-prone skin if used on a regular basis,

The top dogs in this category are Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid. You can find them mixed in with serums, creams, cleansers and toners, depending on how high of a dosage you want to use (the smaller the percentage, the less potent the formula.

The Difference Between AHAs and BHAs

If you’ve ever used glycolic acid and salicylic acid, then you’ve used AHAs and BHAs, respectively. However, each chemical exfoliator affects the skin differently.

While both exfoliate the skin, the main difference between AHAs and BHAs is that one is water-soluble and the other is oil soluble. This affects the way they treat the skin.

AHAs are water soluble, so they stay very close the skin’s surface. Glycolic acid in particular works to exfoliate the top layer of dead skin cells that accumulate. This is why AHAs are ideal for people with dry skin—they remove the buildup that contributes to dry, flaky skin, allowing moisturizers to absorb deeper to properly hydrate the skin.

BHAs are oil soluble, so they can travel deeper into the skin’s layers because natural oils and sebum exist deep within the skin. This is why BHAs are ideal for people with oily and acne-prone skin. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA, and its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties make it an effective acne treatment.

Despite the difference between AHAs and BHAs, they’re both chemical exfoliators that have some shared benefits (and some individual ones, too).

AHA Skincare Benefits

AHAs are capable of solving skin dilemmas such as wrinkles, uneven skin texture and pigmentation, reduce sun damage, prevent dehydration by essentially eating away at dead skin cells on the surface of the skin which is why you will feel a slight tingling sensation when you apply them but there’s no need to panic, they’re just doing their job.

The BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) Family

Whilst they are also chemical exfoliators, AHAs and BHAs treat different skin problems.

AHAs are ideal for those concerned with ageing skin, whereas BHAs are best for those who are one the oilier side of the skincare spectrum and struggle with acne, blackheads and milia (the little white bumps you sometimes see under the skin).

BHA Skincare Benefits

Whilst AHAs are only water soluble, BHAs are oil soluble, which is why they are ideal for those struggling with an oil-slick T-zone. They can get below the oil that’s clogging up your skin and also have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. So they help spots disappear quicker and calm any redness and are anti-ageing.

The most popular BHA is Salicylic acid. It can be found in a range of different formulas targeted at spot treatments.

How to Choose AHA vs. BHA

When choosing between AHA and BHA, it comes down to the way in which you want the products to work along with your skin concerns. If your issues are deeper, like cystic acne or just acne in general, you'll want to use either BHA or an AHA/BHA combination, as it will likely be able to better penetrate the issue.

For an issue like dry skin, however, AHA is your best bet. An AHA/BHA combo might work depending on your skin type, but when your goal is to exfoliate just the top layer of your skin, you should be using an AHA. Markowitz explains that AHAs and BHAs and their strengths are dependent on the mode and formula. "For example, an in-office peel could have a substantial impact on the skin with associated downtime, while an over-the-counter cream containing these ingredients will give a more limited effect that takes time to accomplish the desired result," she says. "But given the potential drying properties of humectants, which draw moisture from within, their use should be with intent and purpose not as a daily regimen."

Markowitz warns that AHAs and BHAs are strong humectants that have a peeling effect and can cause the skin to dry out if overused. For this reason, they should be used when you want your skin to glow a few times a week as opposed to every day.

How to Combine AHAs and BHAs

Many products make use of both AHAs and BHAs, and though they can cause skin irritation if doses are too high, Markowitz recommends looking for a moisturizer that already has a combination of AHA and BHA for a balanced formula. Bottom line, if your skin requires a little more TLC (think stubborn pores, deep-set wrinkles, or rough bumps), you could do well with a combo.

How often to use AHAs, BHAs, and PHAs

Regardless of which acid—or acids—you decide to try, it’s best to introduce them into your routine gradually, starting once or twice a week. And because acids (excluding hyaluronic acid) remove the top layer of skin, they can make your complexion more UV-sensitive. Always, always slather on SPF of at least 30 during the day to protect your newfound glow.

“Polyhydroxy acids have larger molecules than AHAs, so they work only on the most superficial layer of skin. They’re so gentle, they can even be used even by people with rosacea or eczema. In addition to minimizing the risk of red cheeks, PHAs are also hydrating, making them a great bet for anyone with super-dry skin. On ingredient labels, “look for gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.

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